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Letters from Israel Mayor Martin O'Malley formalizes a Sister City Relationship between Baltimore and Ashkelon THURSDAY - JANUARY 13, 2005
First official stop of the day is to meet with members of the Israeli Border Patrol at their base just south of Jerusalem. The force is made up of Jews, Christians, Arabs. We are told that within this group, there is a special bond - a certain collegiality. We can see the pride of teamwork among these young men. Given the history of the region, it is refreshing to see this camaraderie among officers from different cultures. General Said Muaafa heads this Unit, which actively works with the Israeli military. It is responsible for monitoring the 200 miles of Egyptian border with its 2500 officers. General Muaafa escorts us to the top of a hill with trees surrounding us. A man in blue overalls walks a path near us. Suddenly, the man is accosted by Border Control officers camouflaged and faces painted hiding in trees and under brush. General Muaafa explains in some detail the scenario that unfolded, although no explanation is needed. These are well trained officers that must and do take their mission seriously. We are then shown the Unit's equipment including submachine guns, night and long distance vision goggles and special thermal units that detect body heat. I try on a 35 pound security vest, as we learn about stun grenades used to scare and startle terrorists. General Muaafa tells us that border incidents occur weekly. Whether it's illegal crossings or smuggling narcotics, the mission is to protect the border. General Muaafa and his officers do their job well. "The City of Ashkelon welcomes Mayor Martin O'Malley and his delegation from Baltimore," states the sign at the gate's entry to our soon-to-be Sister City. Ashkelon Mayor Roni Mehatzri greets us at the sign, and we take pictures. Our tour with the Mayor and members of his staff through Ashkelon begins at 11:15 am. Ashkelon has a population of 116,000 people. The population has grown an amazing 102% in 15 years, largely due to the influx of 40,000 Russian immigrants. With that growth, development is everywhere. The city is building eight new neighborhoods and a new sports center. We pass by the Ashkelon regional college, which is exploring the possibility of developing an affiliation with Hebrew University in Baltimore and Johns Hopkins University. We see a park and ask Mayor Mehatzri about it. He explains that it's a playground honoring the 1.5 million children who perished in the Holocaust. We tour the Barzalai Medical Center, which, while similar in size to Neil Meltzer's Sinai hospital, is 6 miles from the Gaza Strip, and handles terrorist casualties on a regular basis. On our way to lunch, we tour other parts of the city, and we visit the beach. We become Honorary Members of the Ashkelon Marina. I have a card to prove it. I just need a boat.
We eat a feast of incredible Middle Eastern foods. The people of Ashkelon are kind and generous. Ashkelon is clean and bright. I am optimistic that our relationship with Ashkelon will be productive. With stomachs full, we head to Tel Aviv, with a population of approximately 400,000. Katie and I spend some time walking the beautiful streets. We walk along Ben Yehuda Street looking for gifts. The city is different from Jerusalem. It is adjacent to the Mediterranean Sea and the buildings are made of stucco.
At 7:00 pm, we dine at Artichoke, a trendy Tel Aviv restaurant. Katie and I - and our friends Aaron Greenfield of the Maryland Business Council and his wife Pamela Kessler, an Assistant State's Attorney - climb two flights of stairs to get to our table, positioned in the middle of an incredible art gallery. We are honored to have as our guest, Major General Giora Eiland, the head of Israel's National Security Council and the evening's speaker. The General cautions that when decisions are made militarily, expectations must be balanced with military capabilities. "It is important to have At the end of our meal, Jon Laria gives touching and articulate remarks summarizing our amazing trip. Israel is an amazing and beautiful country. And as a mayor, it offers important lessons on security. Security is the number one priority, and no one does it better than the Israelis. I am impressed with their training, drills, and particularly, intelligence sharing among various policing functions. On On a more personal note, I was schooled by the Jesuits. My Catholic faith is an important part of my life. When I've read the Bible, I have been reading a story... a story referencing holy sites and a biblical landscape. Being in Israel, I have had the opportunity to actually see, walk, touch and inspect these holiest of sites. I have been to where Jesus read his Sermon on the Mount. I have traveled through the Old City placing my hand on the Western Wall. These are no longer symbols but, rather, real places I have internalized. My reading of the scriptures is forever changed. Katie and I thank the Baltimore Jewish Council for this opportunity to learn and tour. I appreciate those on the delegation for their contribution to the trip. And, perhaps, next year in Jerusalem. To read Mayor O'Malley's complete Diary please click here. |
"This is your wake up call," I hear at 5:45 am on my hotel room phone. It's our final day in Israel. I wake early, before our itinerary begins, to see the Via Dolorosa - "The way of sorrows." This remembers Jesus' walk after his trial to his place of execution. It's a cool Thursday morning as just Lee, our tour guide, and I depart the King David Hotel at 6:20 am. Lee and I walk all fourteen stations. In particular, I will never forget the fifth station, where I placed my hand on a wall where tradition states that Jesus rested. As we continue the walk, we see children rushing to school and men and women praying as the sun rises over the Mount of Olives. I am so appreciative of this opportunity. 
At lunch, Mayor Mehatzri and I hold a press conference announcing and formalizing our Sister City relationship. I am hopeful that our cities can provide youth and cultural exchanges. We are joined by a troop performing Israeli dance routines. In addition, students affiliated with Hillel at Johns Hopkins University and Goucher College are present for the celebration. 
At 6:00 pm, we head back to our delegation meeting place just as the sun sets over the Mediterranean Sea. It reminds me of a scene out of Lawrence of Arabia. Absolutely breathtaking.